Pruning Catmint
When and how — Nepeta x faassenii
Prune your catmint in March and November — the optimal month is usually November.
The next pruning window is November.

When to prune?
The perennial catmint is pruned in March and November.
With perennials, pruning is really seasonal management.
You don't prune perennials the way you prune shrubs. The work happens at three moments: (1) deadheading spent flower stems during the season to encourage repeat bloom, (2) optionally cutting back to about 10–15 cm above ground in late autumn, and (3) clearing all the old foliage in March before the new shoots emerge. Many gardeners now deliberately leave the old growth standing through winter — it protects the crown and shelters overwintering insects. Which approach to choose depends on taste and species: evergreen perennials (hellebore, bergenia) look better left alone, while wet-rotting species (hosta) need to come down after the first frost.
How to prune catmint
Catmint flowers from early summer through to late summer, producing spikes of blue or purple blooms that are highly attractive to bees. The key to keeping it tidy and encouraging a second flush of flowers is a hard cut-back after the first flowering wave fades, typically in late June or July. Use garden shears or hedging shears to shear the whole plant back by about half, removing spent flower stems and the top growth. This prevents the plant from flopping open in the centre, promotes fresh foliage, and often triggers a second round of blooms in late summer or early autumn. In November, once flowering has finished and the foliage begins to look tatty, cut the plant back to within 5–10 cm of the ground. This autumn tidy-up prevents the old stems from becoming a soggy mess over winter and reduces the risk of fungal problems. If you garden in a very exposed or wet location, you can delay this cut until March instead, leaving the old growth as some protection for the crown over winter. In March, whether or not you pruned in autumn, tidy up any remaining dead stems and trim back to the emerging new shoots at the base. This is also the moment to remove any winter-damaged growth. Catmint responds well to this treatment and will quickly produce fresh, aromatic, grey-green foliage. The plant does not require complex pruning or shaping—just these straightforward cuts to keep it vigorous, compact, and floriferous. Always use clean, sharp tools to avoid bruising the soft stems.
Common mistakes
✗ Cutting back too early in spring
Late frost can still strike and the old foliage protects the crown. Wait until the first new shoots are visible (usually mid-March) — then you know the season has actually started.
✗ Skipping deadheading
Hardy geranium, salvia, lupin and delphinium will give a second flush if you cut spent stems back to just above a pair of healthy leaves as soon as the first flowers fade.
✗ Cutting ornamental grasses down in autumn
The dry stems are the whole point of winter interest, AND they protect the crown from frost and waterlogging. Cut down to a fist's height only in late February.
Combine with feeding
In March you can combine pruning with feeding — efficient, and you only disturb the plant once. Read the full care guide for catmint →
Hold off on pruning
Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is November. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).