Cherry Laurel in May: monthly care

Cherry laurel is remarkably adaptable and will grow in almost any position, from full sun through partial shade to full shade, making it one of the most versatile evergreen shrubs for temperate gardens. It tolerates a wide range of soil types—loam, clay, chalk, and even sandy soils—though it performs best in reasonably fertile, moisture-retentive ground that doesn't dry out completely in summer or become waterlogged in winter. Plant bare-root or container-grown specimens in March, April, or May for spring planting, or in September and October for autumn planting. Autumn is often preferable because the soil is still warm and autumn rains help establishment, but spring planting works well if you can water reliably through the first summer. Dig a hole roughly twice the width of the root ball and the same depth, breaking up compacted soil at the base. Mix in some well-rotted compost or manure if your soil is poor or very free-draining. Set the plant so the top of the root ball sits level with the surrounding soil—planting too deep can lead to stem rot. For hedging, space plants 50 cm apart; for specimen shrubs, allow at least 100 cm between plants to accommodate the mature spread of 100–300 cm. Backfill with the excavated soil, firm gently with your heel to eliminate air pockets, then water thoroughly even if the soil feels damp. Apply a 5–7 cm layer of organic mulch (composted bark or garden compost) around the base, keeping it a few centimetres clear of the stem. This conserves moisture and suppresses weeds while the roots establish. Water weekly during dry spells in the first growing season.

Once established, cherry laurel is fairly drought-tolerant but performs best with moderate, consistent moisture. Water deeply during prolonged dry spells in spring and summer, especially plants in full sun or sandy soils. In shade and on heavier soils, natural rainfall is usually sufficient except in very dry years. Reduce watering in autumn and winter when growth slows. Feed in March or April with a balanced general-purpose fertiliser (such as Growmore or blood, fish, and bone) scattered around the base at the rate recommended on the packet, or apply a mulch of well-rotted manure or garden compost, which feeds and conserves moisture. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds after midsummer, as they promote soft growth vulnerable to frost. A second, lighter feed in early autumn can be beneficial on poor soils but isn't essential. Cherry laurel is evergreen and fully hardy in zones 6a–8b, requiring no special winter protection in temperate Europe. Refresh the mulch layer each spring to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Common problems include powdery mildew in dry summers (white coating on leaves; improve air circulation and water at the base, not overhead) and shothole fungus, which causes small brown spots that drop out, leaving holes. Remove and bin affected leaves; avoid overhead watering. Vine weevil larvae occasionally attack roots of container-grown plants. Aphids may cluster on soft new growth in spring; a strong jet of water or insecticidal soap usually controls them. Cherry laurel is generally pest- and disease-resistant if grown in suitable conditions with good drainage and air flow.