Pruning Cherry Laurel

Cherry laurel responds well to pruning and can be shaped into formal hedges or kept as informal screening. The two main pruning windows are June and September. June pruning, after the spring flush of growth has hardened off, allows you to tidy the plant while still giving it time to produce a second flush of foliage before winter. September pruning is lighter, removing any wayward growth and maintaining shape without stimulating soft new growth that might be damaged by frost. Use secateurs or a pruning saw rather than hedge trimmers if possible. Cherry laurel has large, glossy leaves, and mechanical trimmers slice through them, leaving unsightly brown edges that take months to drop. Secateurs allow you to cut just above a leaf node or back to a main branch, resulting in a much neater finish. For large hedges where hand-pruning isn't practical, trim with shears or a trimmer but expect some cosmetic leaf damage. Remove any dead, diseased, or crossing branches first, cutting back to healthy wood or the main stem. To reduce height or spread, cut back to a side shoot or bud facing the direction you want new growth to go. Cherry laurel tolerates hard pruning; if an old hedge has become leggy or overgrown, you can cut it back to 30–50 cm from the ground in late winter or early spring, and it will regenerate from old wood, though it may take two seasons to look presentable again. Avoid pruning in frosty weather or late autumn, as cut surfaces are vulnerable to cold damage and dieback.