Pruning Columbine 'Nora Barlow'
When and how — Aquilegia vulgaris 'Nora Barlow'
Prune your columbine 'Nora Barlow' in July and August — the optimal month is usually August.
The next pruning window is July.

When to prune?
The perennial columbine 'Nora Barlow' is pruned in July and August.
With perennials, pruning is really seasonal management.
You don't prune perennials the way you prune shrubs. The work happens at three moments: (1) deadheading spent flower stems during the season to encourage repeat bloom, (2) optionally cutting back to about 10–15 cm above ground in late autumn, and (3) clearing all the old foliage in March before the new shoots emerge. Many gardeners now deliberately leave the old growth standing through winter — it protects the crown and shelters overwintering insects. Which approach to choose depends on taste and species: evergreen perennials (hellebore, bergenia) look better left alone, while wet-rotting species (hosta) need to come down after the first frost.
How to prune columbine 'Nora Barlow'
Aquilegia 'Nora Barlow' doesn't require pruning in the traditional sense, but timely deadheading and cutting back will keep the plant tidy and encourage better performance. The main task comes in July and August, after the late spring and early summer flowering period has finished. Once the distinctive double pompom flowers fade and begin to look untidy, cut the entire flowering stem back to the base, just above the mound of foliage. Use clean, sharp secateurs to make neat cuts. This prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and often stimulates a modest second flush of foliage growth. If you want 'Nora Barlow' to self-seed around the garden, leave a few spent flowerheads in place, though be aware that seedlings from this cultivar rarely replicate the parent's double pink-and-white blooms and usually revert to simpler forms. By late summer or early autumn, the foliage may look tired and tatty, especially if mildew has taken hold. At this point you can cut back all the old leaves to ground level. Fresh basal foliage will often emerge in autumn and persist through winter in milder areas, giving the plant a head start in spring. If the foliage remains healthy and green, you can leave it in place until late winter and tidy up just before new growth begins in early spring. Remove any damaged, diseased, or yellowing leaves throughout the growing season to maintain plant health and appearance. Aquilegias are generally short-lived perennials, lasting three to five years, so allow some self-seeding to ensure continuity in your borders.
Common mistakes
✗ Cutting back too early in spring
Late frost can still strike and the old foliage protects the crown. Wait until the first new shoots are visible (usually mid-March) — then you know the season has actually started.
✗ Skipping deadheading
Hardy geranium, salvia, lupin and delphinium will give a second flush if you cut spent stems back to just above a pair of healthy leaves as soon as the first flowers fade.
✗ Cutting ornamental grasses down in autumn
The dry stems are the whole point of winter interest, AND they protect the crown from frost and waterlogging. Cut down to a fist's height only in late February.
Hold off on pruning
Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is July. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).