Growing Daffodil in a pot

Daffodils are low-maintenance once established and require moderate watering. In autumn and winter, natural rainfall is almost always sufficient. In spring, if the weather is particularly dry during active growth and flowering, water occasionally to keep the soil lightly moist, but avoid waterlogging. Once the foliage begins to yellow after flowering, reduce watering and let the soil dry out naturally; the bulbs enter dormancy and excess moisture at this stage can encourage rot. Feed daffodils once a year in March, just as the shoots emerge or as the flower buds appear. Use a balanced granular fertiliser or a specific bulb feed, sprinkling it around the clumps and watering in if rain isn't forecast. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds, which promote leaf growth at the expense of flowers. Do not feed after flowering; the foliage alone will replenish the bulb adequately if left to die back naturally. Daffodils are fully hardy across zones 3a–9b and need no winter protection. They can remain in the ground year-round. Every four to five years, if clumps become congested and flowering declines, lift and divide them in late summer once foliage has completely died back. Replant immediately at the correct spacing. Pests are few. Narcissus bulb fly larvae occasionally tunnel into bulbs, causing them to rot; affected bulbs feel soft and should be discarded. Slugs may damage emerging shoots in early spring. Daffodils are toxic to most animals, so deer and rabbits avoid them. Basal rot, a fungal disease, can occur in poorly drained soil; ensure good drainage at planting to prevent it.