Pruning Elder
When and how — Sambucus nigra
Prune your elder in November and December — the optimal month is usually December.
The next pruning window is November.

When to prune?
The shrub elder is pruned in November and December.
Pruning time depends on when the shrub flowers.
The rule of thumb for ornamental shrubs: spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, lilac, flowering currant) are pruned immediately after flowering, because they set their buds on last year's wood. Summer-flowering shrubs (buddleia, paniculata hydrangea, hardy hibiscus) are pruned in March, because they flower on wood produced this season. Get the timing wrong and you cut off this year's buds. Evergreen shrubs (yew, box) are best pruned around Midsummer (24 June): the first flush of growth is finished and the plant still has time to seal the wounds before winter.
How to prune elder
Elder flowers on the current season's growth, so pruning in late autumn or winter—November and December are ideal—encourages a flush of vigorous new shoots that will carry the following year's blossom and berries. Pruning also keeps this fast-growing shrub within bounds and prevents it becoming a sprawling tangle of old wood. Use sharp bypass secateurs for stems up to pencil thickness and a pruning saw for anything thicker. For a mature elder, the simplest approach is to cut back about one-third of the oldest stems to ground level each year, removing the thickest, woodiest growth. This rejuvenates the plant gradually and maintains a balance of young and older wood. If your elder has become overgrown or neglected, you can cut the entire shrub down to 30–60 cm from the ground in one go; it will regenerate vigorously the following spring, though you'll sacrifice one season's flowers and fruit. If you're growing elder primarily for foliage—particularly ornamental cultivars with coloured leaves—you can prune harder, cutting all stems back to a low framework each winter. This produces lush, large leaves on strong new growth. For a more natural, informal shape with maximum flowers and berries, prune lightly, removing only dead, damaged, or crossing branches and thinning out congested growth. Wear gloves; the foliage has an unpleasant smell when bruised. Always prune above an outward-facing bud to encourage an open habit. Clear away prunings promptly—elder wood rots down slowly.
Common mistakes
✗ Hard-pruning all hydrangeas in early spring
Mophead hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) flowers on old wood — cut it back in March and you get no flowers. Paniculata flowers on new wood and can be cut back hard. Check the species first.
✗ Trimming everything to the same length
Looks 'chopped' and weakens the shrub. Instead, remove one in three of the oldest stems each year right down to the base (renewal pruning). This keeps the shrub vigorous and natural in shape.
✗ Pruning in summer heat
Fresh cuts dry out quickly in full sun and become an entry point for fungal disease. Wait for an overcast day or postpone until autumn.
Hold off on pruning
Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is November. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).