Grape in June: monthly care

Grapevines require two distinct pruning sessions each year, and getting both right is essential for a good crop. The main prune happens in January or February while the vine is fully dormant. Use clean, sharp secateurs or loppers and be prepared to remove a lot of growth—up to 90 per cent of the previous year's wood. Establish a permanent framework of one or two main stems (the rod or rods) trained along your wires, then prune back all the side shoots (laterals) that grew the previous summer to one or two buds from the main rod. These short spurs will produce the fruiting shoots in the coming season. Cut just above a bud at a slight angle. Vines bleed sap if pruned too late, so finish by mid-February at the latest. The second prune is a summer trim in June or July, once the vine is in active growth and flowering or fruiting. Pinch or cut back the green side shoots to two leaves beyond each developing bunch of grapes. This concentrates the plant's energy into ripening fruit rather than making excessive leafy growth, and improves air circulation around the bunches, reducing the risk of fungal disease. Also remove any shoots that aren't carrying fruit, cutting them back to five or six leaves. If your vine is young and not yet fruiting, simply shorten all side shoots to five leaves to build the framework without exhausting the plant.

Grapevines have moderate water needs but require consistent moisture during the growing season, especially from bud-break in spring through to fruit set in early summer. Water deeply once a week during dry spells, increasing slightly when fruits are swelling in July and August, but reduce watering as the grapes begin to ripen in late August and September—drier conditions at this stage concentrate sugars and improve flavour. Avoid overhead watering, which encourages mildew; water at the base instead. Feed once in March with a balanced general-purpose fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone, or a slow-release granular feed scattered around the root zone and lightly forked in. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds after spring, as these promote soft leafy growth at the expense of fruit and winter hardiness. A light mulch of well-rotted compost each spring helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, but keep it away from the stem. Grapevines are hardy in zones 6a–9b and generally overwinter well outdoors in temperate Europe, though late frosts can damage new shoots in spring. In colder or exposed gardens, consider fleece protection in April if frost threatens emerging growth. Common problems include powdery mildew, which appears as white dusty patches on leaves and fruit—improve air flow through summer pruning and avoid overcrowding. Downy mildew causes yellow blotches and needs similar preventative care. Wasps and birds are attracted to ripening fruit in September and October; netting or paper bags over bunches offer protection. Red spider mite can trouble vines grown under glass. Remove any mummified or diseased fruit promptly to reduce overwintering pests.