Hollyhock in November: monthly care

Hollyhocks don't require complex pruning, but timely attention in autumn keeps plants tidy and can encourage longevity. The main pruning window is October and November, after flowering has finished and before winter sets in. Once the flower spikes have faded and seed pods have formed, decide whether you want self-sown seedlings. If you're happy for hollyhocks to spread naturally around the garden, leave some spent spikes intact so seed can scatter. If not, cut the entire flowering stem down to the basal rosette of leaves at ground level using secateurs or loppers. Remove all spent stems and dispose of them, especially if rust disease has been present, to reduce overwintering spores. In late autumn, tidy the basal foliage by removing any yellowing, damaged, or rust-infected leaves. Don't cut back healthy green rosettes—these will overwinter and fuel next year's growth. If rust has been severe, remove all affected foliage and bin it (don't compost), then clear away any leaf debris around the base. During the growing season, deadhead individual flowers as they fade if you want to prolong blooming slightly and keep plants looking neat, though this won't significantly extend the main flowering period. Snap or cut off spent blooms just behind the flower head. Hollyhocks are often short-lived perennials or biennials, so don't be surprised if plants decline after two or three years. Allowing some self-seeding is the easiest way to maintain a continuous display without replanting.