Growing Japanese Maple in a pot
For balcony, patio or terrace — Acer palmatum
japanese Maple grows well in a pot of at least Ø 210 cm (7274 L capacity), in a position with partial shade. Watering: every 2 days in summer, once every 2 weeks in winter.

Which pot?
Ø 210 cm
~ 7274 L potting soil
Choose a generous pot with good drainage — small pots restrict root development.
Watering
every 2 days
once every 2 weeks
Always use a pot with drainage holes. Water dries out faster in pots — or the plant drowns. Check weekly with your finger: only water when the top 2 cm of soil is dry.
Pot care
Japanese maples have moderate water needs. Water regularly during the first two growing seasons to help roots establish, especially in dry spells. Once established, they tolerate short dry periods but perform best with consistent moisture. In summer, water deeply once or twice a week if rainfall is scarce, particularly for specimens in containers or free-draining sandy soil. Reduce watering in autumn and winter, but don't let the root ball dry out completely during prolonged dry spells, especially for young plants. Feed once a year in April with a balanced slow-release fertiliser or a specialist ericaceous feed, which suits their preference for slightly acidic conditions. Scatter it around the root zone and water in. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds, which promote soft, sappy growth prone to frost damage and aphid attack. Container-grown Japanese maples benefit from a second, lighter feed in early summer. Mulch annually in spring with well-rotted compost, leaf mould, or bark chips to a depth of 5–8 cm, keeping the mulch away from the stem. This conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and gradually improves soil structure. Japanese maples are hardy in zones 5b–8b but can suffer tip damage in late spring frosts. No special winter protection is needed for established plants in the ground, though a fleece wrap helps young specimens and potted plants during severe cold snaps. Pests are few. Aphids occasionally cluster on new growth in spring; a strong jet of water usually dislodges them. Verticillium wilt is the most serious disease, causing sudden branch dieback; affected branches should be pruned out and destroyed. Tar spot and leaf scorch are cosmetic issues, often linked to poor siting or drought stress.
Pot-specific tip: add slow-release fertiliser pellets in March — potting soil exhausts much faster than open ground.