Lavender in August: monthly care

Lavender needs pruning twice a year to stay compact, floriferous and long-lived. Without it, plants become woody, bare at the base and prone to splitting open in wind or snow. The first prune is a light tidy in August, immediately after the main flowering flush. Use clean, sharp secateurs or garden shears to cut off all the spent flower stems, taking them back to just above the first set of leaves below the faded blooms. This deadheading prevents the plant wasting energy on seed and often encourages a modest second flush of flowers in early autumn. The main structural prune happens in March or April, just as new green shoots begin to appear at the base of the old stems. Cut back all the previous year's growth by about one-third to one-half, shaping the plant into a neat, rounded mound. Always cut into the green, leafy growth—never back into thick, bare brown wood, because lavender rarely regenerates from old stems and you risk killing whole branches or even the entire plant. If you're uncertain, err on the side of caution and take less off; you can always prune again next year. Use sharp bypass secateurs for precision or hedging shears for larger plantings and long hedges. Work your way around the plant evenly to maintain a balanced shape. If your lavender has become very leggy or woody, it's usually better to replace it than attempt drastic renovation. Well-pruned lavender will remain productive and attractive for ten to fifteen years.

Lavender is a low-maintenance plant once established, but it does have specific needs. Water sparingly: established plants tolerate drought well and actually prefer dry conditions. In a typical British summer, rainfall is usually sufficient; only water during prolonged dry spells in the first year. Overwatering or poorly drained soil causes root rot and yellowing foliage, so err on the side of dryness. Lavender's evergreen foliage means it continues to transpire gently through winter, but avoid watering in cold, wet months. Feeding is not necessary and often counterproductive. Lavender evolved on nutrient-poor Mediterranean hillsides, and rich soil produces lush, floppy growth with weak stems and fewer flowers. If your soil is very poor or plants look pale, a light sprinkle of general-purpose fertiliser in early spring is the absolute maximum; otherwise, leave well alone. Lavender is hardy to zone 5a and overwinters reliably in temperate Europe without protection, provided drainage is good. Wet winter soil is far more lethal than cold. In heavy or clay soils, consider planting on a slight mound or raised bed to keep the crown dry. Mulch with gravel rather than organic matter to reflect light, suppress weeds and improve drainage around the neck of the plant. Common problems include rosemary beetle (metallic green-and-purple striped adults and grey larvae that chew foliage) and fungal diseases such as Phytophthora root rot in wet conditions. Pick off beetles by hand or use an organic insecticide if infestations are severe. Good drainage and adequate spacing remain your best defences against disease. Harvest flowers in June, July or August when buds are just opening for the strongest fragrance.

Lavender is a low-maintenance plant once established, but it does have specific needs. Water sparingly: established plants tolerate drought well and actually prefer dry conditions. In a typical British summer, rainfall is usually sufficient; only water during prolonged dry spells in the first year. Overwatering or poorly drained soil causes root rot and yellowing foliage, so err on the side of dryness. Lavender's evergreen foliage means it continues to transpire gently through winter, but avoid watering in cold, wet months. Feeding is not necessary and often counterproductive. Lavender evolved on nutrient-poor Mediterranean hillsides, and rich soil produces lush, floppy growth with weak stems and fewer flowers. If your soil is very poor or plants look pale, a light sprinkle of general-purpose fertiliser in early spring is the absolute maximum; otherwise, leave well alone. Lavender is hardy to zone 5a and overwinters reliably in temperate Europe without protection, provided drainage is good. Wet winter soil is far more lethal than cold. In heavy or clay soils, consider planting on a slight mound or raised bed to keep the crown dry. Mulch with gravel rather than organic matter to reflect light, suppress weeds and improve drainage around the neck of the plant. Common problems include rosemary beetle (metallic green-and-purple striped adults and grey larvae that chew foliage) and fungal diseases such as Phytophthora root rot in wet conditions. Pick off beetles by hand or use an organic insecticide if infestations are severe. Good drainage and adequate spacing remain your best defences against disease. Harvest flowers in June, July or August when buds are just opening for the strongest fragrance.