Pruning Lungwort
When and how — Pulmonaria officinalis
Prune your lungwort in March and November — the optimal month is usually November.
The next pruning window is November.

When to prune?
The perennial lungwort is pruned in March and November.
With perennials, pruning is really seasonal management.
You don't prune perennials the way you prune shrubs. The work happens at three moments: (1) deadheading spent flower stems during the season to encourage repeat bloom, (2) optionally cutting back to about 10–15 cm above ground in late autumn, and (3) clearing all the old foliage in March before the new shoots emerge. Many gardeners now deliberately leave the old growth standing through winter — it protects the crown and shelters overwintering insects. Which approach to choose depends on taste and species: evergreen perennials (hellebore, bergenia) look better left alone, while wet-rotting species (hosta) need to come down after the first frost.
How to prune lungwort
Lungwort does not require traditional pruning in the way shrubs do, but it benefits from targeted tidying to keep plants healthy and attractive. The main task is removing old foliage, which is best done in March or November. Many gardeners prefer March, just as new growth begins to emerge, because you can clearly see which leaves are tatty or mildewed and which fresh shoots are appearing. After flowering finishes in late spring, the attractive spotted leaves continue to provide ground cover through summer. However, by late summer or autumn, older leaves often develop powdery mildew—white or greyish patches on the foliage. This is largely cosmetic and rarely harms the plant, but it looks unsightly. In November, once the plant begins to go dormant, you can cut back all the old foliage to ground level using secateurs or garden shears. This removes diseased leaves, reduces overwintering sites for pests, and makes way for fresh spring growth. Alternatively, wait until March and cut back any remaining tatty foliage before the new leaves fully unfurl. At this time, also remove any dead flower stems if you didn't deadhead earlier. While deadheading spent blooms in late spring isn't essential, it does tidy the plant and may encourage a few extra flowers. Simply snip off faded flower stalks at the base. The key is not to be too hasty in spring—wait until you can distinguish old from new growth to avoid accidentally removing emerging leaves or flower buds.
Common mistakes
✗ Cutting back too early in spring
Late frost can still strike and the old foliage protects the crown. Wait until the first new shoots are visible (usually mid-March) — then you know the season has actually started.
✗ Skipping deadheading
Hardy geranium, salvia, lupin and delphinium will give a second flush if you cut spent stems back to just above a pair of healthy leaves as soon as the first flowers fade.
✗ Cutting ornamental grasses down in autumn
The dry stems are the whole point of winter interest, AND they protect the crown from frost and waterlogging. Cut down to a fist's height only in late February.
Combine with feeding
In March you can combine pruning with feeding — efficient, and you only disturb the plant once. Read the full care guide for lungwort →
Hold off on pruning
Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is November. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).