Peach in February: monthly care

Peach trees thrive in full sun and need a sheltered spot protected from late frosts, which can damage early spring blossom and ruin the crop. Choose a south- or southwest-facing position, ideally against a warm wall if you're gardening in cooler areas of the UK or Ireland. Avoid frost pockets and exposed sites where cold winds blow during flowering time. Peaches prefer well-drained loam or sandy soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. Heavy clay soils must be improved with plenty of grit and organic matter to prevent waterlogging, which peaches cannot tolerate. Before planting, dig a hole roughly twice the width of the root ball and fork over the base to break up compacted soil. Mix in a bucketful of well-rotted compost or manure, but keep it away from direct contact with the roots. Plant bare-root peach trees between November and March, while they're dormant; container-grown specimens can go in any time but establish best in autumn or early spring. Position the tree so the graft union (the knobbly bulge low on the trunk) sits just above soil level. Backfill with the excavated soil, firming gently with your heel as you go to eliminate air pockets. Space trees 400 cm apart to allow for their mature spread and good air circulation, which helps reduce fungal disease. Water thoroughly after planting, even in winter, to settle the roots. Apply a 7–10 cm layer of well-rotted compost or bark mulch around the base, keeping it clear of the trunk itself. Stake young trees with a short, sturdy post and a flexible tie to prevent wind rock while the roots establish.

Peaches have moderate water needs but require consistent moisture during fruit development from late spring through summer. Water deeply once or twice a week in dry spells, soaking the root zone rather than sprinkling the leaves. Reduce watering after harvest and in winter, but don't let the soil dry out completely, especially for trees in containers or against walls where rain doesn't reach. Feed in March with a balanced general fertiliser such as blood, fish, and bone, scattering a generous handful around the root zone and lightly forking it in. Apply a second feed in June using a high-potash tomato fertiliser to support fruit ripening and next year's flower buds. Mulch annually in spring with well-rotted compost or manure to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and slowly release nutrients. Peach leaf curl is the most serious problem in temperate Europe, causing red blistering on leaves in spring and weakening the tree. The fungal spores infect during winter and early spring, so prevention is key: cover trees with a clear polythene shelter from January to May to keep rain off the foliage, or grow in a greenhouse. Remove and destroy infected leaves promptly. Aphids can cluster on soft shoot tips in late spring; squash by hand or spray with an organic insecticide if necessary. In colder zones, protect blossom from late frosts with horticultural fleece draped over the canopy on cold nights. Thin fruitlets in late May or early June to one peach every 15–20 cm along each shoot; this prevents branch breakage and ensures larger, sweeter fruit. Peaches are self-fertile, so a single tree will crop, but hand-pollination with a soft brush during flowering improves fruit set in cool springs.