Quince in February: monthly care

Quince thrives in full sun and prefers loamy soil that is fertile, moisture-retentive yet well-drained. Choose a sheltered spot away from late-spring frosts, which can damage the blossom and reduce your harvest. Avoid exposed sites and heavy clay that stays waterlogged in winter. Plant bare-root quince trees between November and March, ideally during mild, frost-free spells when the soil is workable. Container-grown specimens can go in at any time of year, but autumn and early spring planting gives roots time to establish before summer. Space trees 400 cm apart to allow for their mature spread of 3–5 metres; quince grows into a broad, open-crowned tree that needs room to develop. Prepare the planting site by digging a hole roughly twice the width of the root ball and deep enough so the soil mark on the stem sits level with the surrounding ground. Break up compacted soil at the base and sides of the hole. If your soil is poor, work in a bucketful of well-rotted compost or manure, but avoid adding fertiliser directly at planting time. Position the tree so the graft union (the knobbly bulge low on the trunk) sits just above soil level. Backfill with the excavated soil, firming gently with your heel as you go to eliminate air pockets. Water thoroughly after planting—give at least 10 litres—even if the soil feels damp. Apply a 5–7 cm layer of organic mulch (compost, bark chips, or well-rotted manure) around the base, keeping it clear of the trunk to prevent rot. Stake young trees with a short, angled stake and a flexible tree tie to prevent wind rock while roots establish.

Prune quince in February or March, while the tree is still dormant but before buds break. Pruning at this time minimises sap bleeding and allows you to see the branch structure clearly. Quince fruits on short spurs and on the tips of the previous year's growth, so your aim is to maintain an open, goblet-shaped crown that lets light and air reach the centre. Start by removing any dead, diseased, or damaged wood, cutting back to healthy tissue. Take out crossing or rubbing branches that will cause wounds and invite infection. Remove any suckers growing from the base or rootstock, cutting them off flush at the point of origin. If the centre of the tree has become congested, thin out a few of the older, unproductive branches to improve airflow and reduce the risk of fungal disease. Quince doesn't require heavy annual pruning once established. Focus on maintaining shape and removing about 10–20 per cent of the oldest wood every few years to encourage fresh, fruitful growth. Avoid cutting back the tips of young shoots unnecessarily, as these often carry flower buds. If a branch has become too long or wayward, shorten it to an outward-facing bud or a suitable side shoot. Use clean, sharp secateurs for stems up to pencil thickness, and a pruning saw for anything thicker. Make clean cuts just above a bud or at the branch collar—don't leave stubs, which invite disease. Young trees benefit from formative pruning in the first three or four years to establish a balanced framework of well-spaced branches. Once mature, quince needs only light maintenance pruning to keep it productive and healthy.