Raspberry in August: monthly care

How you prune raspberries depends entirely on whether you're growing summer-fruiting or autumn-fruiting varieties, so identify your type before you start. Summer-fruiting raspberries produce fruit on canes that grew the previous year. Prune these in August immediately after harvest: cut all the canes that have just fruited right down to ground level, as they won't fruit again. Tie in the new green canes that have grown during the summer—these will carry next year's crop. Thin them to about six strong canes per plant, removing any weak, damaged, or overcrowded stems. In late February or early March, tip back the remaining canes to about 15 cm above the top wire to encourage side shoots and keep growth manageable. Autumn-fruiting raspberries bear fruit on the current season's growth, which makes pruning much simpler. In February or March, cut every single cane down to ground level. New canes will emerge in spring, grow through summer, and fruit from late summer into autumn. There's no need to tie in or select canes during the growing season, though you can provide light support if growth is very vigorous. Use clean, sharp secateurs or loppers for all cuts. Remove any suckers that appear away from the row throughout the year to prevent the patch spreading uncontrollably. Always clear away and bin or burn pruned canes—don't compost them—to reduce the risk of carrying over pests such as raspberry cane midge or diseases like cane blight and spur blight.

Raspberries have moderate water needs but perform best with consistent moisture, especially during flowering and fruiting from late spring through summer. Water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells, aiming to keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged. Reduce watering after harvest and through winter, but don't let the roots dry out completely during prolonged dry periods in autumn. Feed in March with a balanced general-purpose fertiliser or a specialist fruit feed, scattering about 100 g per square metre around the base of the plants and lightly forking it into the topsoil. Alternatively, apply a generous mulch of well-rotted manure or compost in early spring, which feeds the soil and suppresses weeds in one go. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds after mid-summer, as these promote soft late growth vulnerable to frost damage. Refresh the mulch layer each spring to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and improve soil structure. Keep the area around canes weed-free; raspberries dislike competition, and shallow hoeing is safer than deep digging near their surface roots. Common pests include raspberry beetle (grubs in the fruit), aphids (which spread viruses), and raspberry cane midge. Inspect canes regularly and remove any showing signs of disease—look for purple blotches (cane spot), withering tips (midge damage), or dying canes (cane blight). Viruses cause stunted growth and poor fruiting; dig out and destroy affected plants promptly. Birds are your main harvest competitor; netting is essential from late May onwards. Raspberries are fully hardy and need no winter protection, though a tidy mulch in late autumn helps protect shallow roots during hard frosts.