Pruning guide

Pruning Red-barked Dogwood

When and howCornus alba

Prune your red-barked Dogwood in March — the optimal month is usually March.

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The next pruning window is March next year.

Red-barked Dogwood (Cornus alba)
Foto: Agnieszka Kwiecień, Nova / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0

When to prune?

The shrub red-barked Dogwood is pruned in March.

Pruning time depends on when the shrub flowers.

The rule of thumb for ornamental shrubs: spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, lilac, flowering currant) are pruned immediately after flowering, because they set their buds on last year's wood. Summer-flowering shrubs (buddleia, paniculata hydrangea, hardy hibiscus) are pruned in March, because they flower on wood produced this season. Get the timing wrong and you cut off this year's buds. Evergreen shrubs (yew, box) are best pruned around Midsummer (24 June): the first flush of growth is finished and the plant still has time to seal the wounds before winter.

How to prune red-barked Dogwood

The vivid red or orange winter stems are the main reason for growing Cornus alba, and regular pruning in March keeps the display at its best. Young stems produce the brightest colour, so the goal is to encourage plenty of new growth each year. Without pruning, the shrub becomes a tangle of older, duller wood and loses much of its winter impact. In March, just as the buds begin to swell, cut back all or most of the previous year's stems hard—down to within 5–10 cm of the base or to a low framework of older wood. This technique, called coppicing or stooling, sounds drastic but red-barked dogwood responds vigorously with a flush of strong new shoots that will colour up beautifully the following winter. Use sharp bypass secateurs for stems up to pencil thickness and loppers or a pruning saw for anything thicker. If your shrub is mature and you're nervous about such severe pruning, you can phase it in by removing only one-third of the oldest stems each March over three years. However, the all-at-once approach gives the most uniform and striking result. After pruning, the plant will look like a collection of stumps, but by midsummer it will have regrown into a leafy mound 150 cm or more tall. Clear away all prunings—don't leave them lying around the base where they can harbour pests or disease. Feed and mulch immediately after pruning to fuel the new growth, and water well in dry springs to support the burst of young stems.

Common mistakes

Hard-pruning all hydrangeas in early spring

Mophead hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) flowers on old wood — cut it back in March and you get no flowers. Paniculata flowers on new wood and can be cut back hard. Check the species first.

Trimming everything to the same length

Looks 'chopped' and weakens the shrub. Instead, remove one in three of the oldest stems each year right down to the base (renewal pruning). This keeps the shrub vigorous and natural in shape.

Pruning in summer heat

Fresh cuts dry out quickly in full sun and become an entry point for fungal disease. Wait for an overcast day or postpone until autumn.

Combine with feeding

In March you can combine pruning with feeding — efficient, and you only disturb the plant once. Read the full care guide for red-barked Dogwood →

Too late this year? Here's what to do

Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is March next year. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).

Also prune in March

More about red-barked Dogwood