Red Currant in February: monthly care

Prune red currants during the dormant season—January, February, or early March—before buds break. Unlike blackcurrants, red currants fruit on older wood and at the base of the previous year's growth, so the aim is to maintain a permanent framework of well-spaced branches and encourage plenty of young side shoots. In the first winter after planting, cut back the main stems by about half to an outward-facing bud to create an open, goblet-shaped bush with four to six strong branches radiating from a short central leg. Remove any shoots growing from below this leg to keep the bush clean-stemmed. In subsequent years, prune to maintain the open centre and remove the oldest, least productive branches. Each winter, cut out one or two of the oldest stems (typically four years or older) right down to the base, choosing those that are thick, gnarled, or crossing into the centre. This makes room for younger replacement shoots. Shorten the main framework branches by about a quarter if they're getting leggy, cutting to an outward-facing bud. Trim back side shoots on the main branches to one or two buds from the base to encourage fruiting spurs. Remove any weak, damaged, or diseased wood, and thin out congested growth to improve air flow and light penetration—this helps reduce fungal problems and makes harvesting easier. Use clean, sharp secateurs or loppers for thicker stems. Red currants tolerate hard pruning if an old bush needs rejuvenating, but spread the work over two or three winters to avoid shocking the plant.

Red currants need consistent moisture, especially from flowering in spring through to harvest in summer. Water regularly during dry spells—aim for a thorough soak once or twice a week rather than frequent shallow watering. Mulch helps enormously: top up the organic layer each spring to suppress weeds, conserve moisture, and feed the soil as it breaks down. Feed in late February or March with a balanced general-purpose fertiliser (such as blood, fish and bone) or a controlled-release granular feed, scattering a couple of handfuls around the base of each bush and lightly forking it into the soil surface. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds later in the season, as these promote soft growth at the expense of fruiting and winter hardiness. On poorer soils, a second light feed after harvest can help the plant build reserves for next year. Red currants are fully hardy and need no winter protection in temperate Europe. They flower early, so in frost-prone gardens consider draping fleece over bushes on cold spring nights to protect the blossom and ensure a good set of fruit. Watch for aphids on shoot tips in spring and early summer; squash small colonies by hand or spray with an insecticidal soap if numbers build up. Gooseberry sawfly caterpillars can strip foliage rapidly—check the undersides of leaves from late spring onwards and pick off by hand or use an organic contact spray. Powdery mildew and leaf spot occasionally occur in humid conditions; good pruning for airflow and avoiding overhead watering reduce the risk. Birds are the main harvest pest—net bushes as the fruit begins to colour if necessary.