Red Currant in January: monthly care

Prune red currants during the dormant season—January, February, or early March—before buds break. Unlike blackcurrants, red currants fruit on older wood and at the base of the previous year's growth, so the aim is to maintain a permanent framework of well-spaced branches and encourage plenty of young side shoots. In the first winter after planting, cut back the main stems by about half to an outward-facing bud to create an open, goblet-shaped bush with four to six strong branches radiating from a short central leg. Remove any shoots growing from below this leg to keep the bush clean-stemmed. In subsequent years, prune to maintain the open centre and remove the oldest, least productive branches. Each winter, cut out one or two of the oldest stems (typically four years or older) right down to the base, choosing those that are thick, gnarled, or crossing into the centre. This makes room for younger replacement shoots. Shorten the main framework branches by about a quarter if they're getting leggy, cutting to an outward-facing bud. Trim back side shoots on the main branches to one or two buds from the base to encourage fruiting spurs. Remove any weak, damaged, or diseased wood, and thin out congested growth to improve air flow and light penetration—this helps reduce fungal problems and makes harvesting easier. Use clean, sharp secateurs or loppers for thicker stems. Red currants tolerate hard pruning if an old bush needs rejuvenating, but spread the work over two or three winters to avoid shocking the plant.