Pruning Rock rose
When and how — Helianthemum nummularium
Prune your rock rose in July and August — the optimal month is usually August.
The next pruning window is July.

When to prune?
The perennial rock rose is pruned in July and August.
With perennials, pruning is really seasonal management.
You don't prune perennials the way you prune shrubs. The work happens at three moments: (1) deadheading spent flower stems during the season to encourage repeat bloom, (2) optionally cutting back to about 10–15 cm above ground in late autumn, and (3) clearing all the old foliage in March before the new shoots emerge. Many gardeners now deliberately leave the old growth standing through winter — it protects the crown and shelters overwintering insects. Which approach to choose depends on taste and species: evergreen perennials (hellebore, bergenia) look better left alone, while wet-rotting species (hosta) need to come down after the first frost.
How to prune rock rose
Zonneroosje benefits from a light trim in July or August, immediately after the main flush of flowers has faded. This timing is important: pruning after flowering encourages a second, smaller flush of blooms later in summer or early autumn, keeps the plant compact, and prevents it from becoming leggy and sparse in the centre. Use a pair of sharp hand shears or secateurs. Trim back the flowered shoots by about one-third to one-half, cutting just above a set of leaves. Focus on removing the spent flower stems and any straggly growth, but avoid cutting hard into old, woody stems at the base—zonneroosje does not regenerate well from very old wood. The aim is to maintain a neat, domed shape and encourage fresh, bushy growth. If you miss the July–August window, you can tidy the plant lightly in early spring (March), removing any winter-damaged or dead shoots. However, this won't stimulate a second flowering, so the post-flowering trim is more beneficial. Do not prune in autumn or winter, as this can leave the plant vulnerable to frost damage and rot. Zonneroosje is evergreen, so it retains its small, grey-green leaves year-round. Deadheading individual spent flowers during the flowering season is not necessary—the light shearing in summer deals with all the faded blooms at once. If the plant becomes woody or bare in the centre after several years, it's often easier to replace it with a young plant than to attempt hard renovation pruning, as old specimens rarely respond well.
Common mistakes
✗ Cutting back too early in spring
Late frost can still strike and the old foliage protects the crown. Wait until the first new shoots are visible (usually mid-March) — then you know the season has actually started.
✗ Skipping deadheading
Hardy geranium, salvia, lupin and delphinium will give a second flush if you cut spent stems back to just above a pair of healthy leaves as soon as the first flowers fade.
✗ Cutting ornamental grasses down in autumn
The dry stems are the whole point of winter interest, AND they protect the crown from frost and waterlogging. Cut down to a fist's height only in late February.
Hold off on pruning
Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is July. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).