Pruning guide

Pruning Skimmia

When and howSkimmia japonica

Prune your skimmia in March and April — the optimal month is usually April.

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The next pruning window is March next year.

Skimmia (Skimmia japonica)
Foto: Geen machineleesbare auteur aanwezig. Op basis van auteursrechtclaims wordt auteur TeunSpaans aangenomen. / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0

When to prune?

The shrub skimmia is pruned in March and April.

Pruning time depends on when the shrub flowers.

The rule of thumb for ornamental shrubs: spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, lilac, flowering currant) are pruned immediately after flowering, because they set their buds on last year's wood. Summer-flowering shrubs (buddleia, paniculata hydrangea, hardy hibiscus) are pruned in March, because they flower on wood produced this season. Get the timing wrong and you cut off this year's buds. Evergreen shrubs (yew, box) are best pruned around Midsummer (24 June): the first flush of growth is finished and the plant still has time to seal the wounds before winter.

How to prune skimmia

Skimmia japonica requires very little pruning and is best left to develop its naturally rounded, compact shape. Unlike many shrubs, it does not respond well to hard cutting back, and over-enthusiastic pruning can spoil its form and reduce the display of berries (on female plants) or flower buds. The main pruning window is March or April, just after the spring flowering period has finished but before new growth begins in earnest. Your primary task is to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased wood using clean, sharp secateurs. Cut back to healthy tissue or to the point where the branch meets a main stem. If any stems have become frosted or browned over winter, trim these back to just above a healthy bud or side shoot. You can also lightly trim any wayward or crossing branches that spoil the symmetry of the plant, but keep cuts minimal—take out no more than one-fifth of the overall growth in any one year. If your skimmia has grown leggy or bare at the base, resist the temptation to prune it hard; instead, improve growing conditions by mulching and feeding, which will encourage bushier growth naturally. Deadheading spent flower clusters is not necessary and, on female plants, will remove the developing berries that provide autumn and winter interest. Male plants, which produce the showy, fragrant flower panicles, can have old flower heads snipped off if they look untidy, but this is purely cosmetic. Always wear gloves when pruning, as skimmia sap can irritate sensitive skin.

Common mistakes

Hard-pruning all hydrangeas in early spring

Mophead hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) flowers on old wood — cut it back in March and you get no flowers. Paniculata flowers on new wood and can be cut back hard. Check the species first.

Trimming everything to the same length

Looks 'chopped' and weakens the shrub. Instead, remove one in three of the oldest stems each year right down to the base (renewal pruning). This keeps the shrub vigorous and natural in shape.

Pruning in summer heat

Fresh cuts dry out quickly in full sun and become an entry point for fungal disease. Wait for an overcast day or postpone until autumn.

Combine with feeding

In March and April you can combine pruning with feeding — efficient, and you only disturb the plant once. Read the full care guide for skimmia →

Too late this year? Here's what to do

Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is March next year. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).

Also prune in March and April

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