Soil improvement — the foundation of every healthy garden

Why 90% of garden problems start in the soil

Most garden problems are soil problems. Plants that won't grow, lawns that look tired, vegetables that stay small. Good news: every soil can be improved.

Know your soil

Do the squeeze test: take a handful of moist soil and form a ball. Clay forms a smooth, sticky ball. Sandy soil falls apart immediately. Peat is dark and spongy. Loam is crumbly perfection.

Compost — the universal improver

Add 2-3cm of compost annually to any soil. On clay it loosens structure, on sand it improves water retention, on peat it neutralizes acidity. Make your own from kitchen and garden waste, or use municipal GFT compost.

Green manures

Yellow mustard — sow August-September, dig in after 6-8 weeks. Breaks up compacted soil. Winter rye — sow October, dig in March. Holds nutrients that would wash away. Clover — fixes nitrogen from the air.

Mulching

Cover bare soil with organic material: bark chips for borders, straw for vegetable gardens, grass clippings (max 5cm). Reduces weeding by 90% and watering by 70%.

By soil type

Clay

Add coarse sand + compost. Never work when wet. Consider gypsum for structure improvement.

Sandy

Add lots of compost (5cm/year). Always mulch. Consider bentonite clay mineral for moisture retention.

Peat

Add lime to reduce acidity (target pH 6.0-6.5). Improve drainage with coarse sand.

When to start

Best time: autumn. The winter freeze-thaw cycles break up clay, worms process compost, and green manures do their work. Second best: early spring. A soil test every 3 years (€20-30) tells you exactly what your soil needs.

With healthy soil as your foundation, you're ready for your garden design. Check our plant guide to filter by soil type.