Cherry Tree in February: monthly care

Choose a site in full sun with enough space for a mature tree that will reach 6–15 metres tall and spread 5–10 metres wide. Cherry trees tolerate a range of soils—loam, chalky, or sandy—but they must be well-drained; waterlogged roots will quickly fail. Avoid frost pockets, as late spring frosts can damage blossom and ruin your crop. Plant bare-root trees between November and March, ideally in November or December while the soil still holds some warmth. Container-grown specimens can go in during February or March if winter planting isn't possible. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball but no deeper; the graft union (a visible kink low on the trunk) should sit a few centimetres above soil level. Break up compacted soil at the base of the hole with a fork to aid drainage and root penetration. Position the tree, spread the roots gently, and backfill with the excavated soil mixed with a spadeful of well-rotted compost. Firm the soil with your heel as you go to eliminate air pockets, but don't stamp it hard. Space trees at least 6 metres apart—more if you're planting multiple specimens or a small orchard. Stake immediately using a single vertical stake driven in at a 45-degree angle to avoid root damage, and attach the trunk with a flexible tree tie. Water thoroughly after planting—at least two full watering cans—and apply a 5–8 cm layer of well-rotted manure or bark mulch around the base, keeping it clear of the trunk to prevent rot.

Water young cherry trees regularly during their first two growing seasons, especially in dry spells between April and September. Once established, they tolerate moderate moisture and rarely need watering except during prolonged drought. Overwatering or poor drainage encourages root diseases and canker. Feed in late February or early March before bud break. Scatter a general-purpose granular fertiliser such as Growmore or blood, fish, and bone in a circle around the tree, staying 30 cm clear of the trunk, then water in. A mulch of well-rotted manure applied at the same time provides slow-release nutrients and suppresses weeds. Top up the mulch each spring but keep it away from the bark. Cherry trees are prone to several problems. Aphids cluster on new growth in spring; a strong jet of water usually dislodges them, or use an insecticidal soap if numbers are high. Birds will strip ripe fruit in June and July—netting is the only reliable defence, though it's impractical on large trees. Silver leaf disease and bacterial canker are the most serious threats; good hygiene, summer pruning, and prompt removal of infected wood are your best protection. Brown rot can affect fruit and blossom; pick up and bin fallen fruit to reduce spores. In autumn, rake up fallen leaves to limit overwintering of fungal diseases. Cherry trees are fully hardy in zones 4a–8b and need no winter protection. Check tree ties annually and loosen them as the trunk thickens to prevent girdling.