Cherry Tree in November: monthly care

Choose a site in full sun with enough space for a mature tree that will reach 6–15 metres tall and spread 5–10 metres wide. Cherry trees tolerate a range of soils—loam, chalky, or sandy—but they must be well-drained; waterlogged roots will quickly fail. Avoid frost pockets, as late spring frosts can damage blossom and ruin your crop. Plant bare-root trees between November and March, ideally in November or December while the soil still holds some warmth. Container-grown specimens can go in during February or March if winter planting isn't possible. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball but no deeper; the graft union (a visible kink low on the trunk) should sit a few centimetres above soil level. Break up compacted soil at the base of the hole with a fork to aid drainage and root penetration. Position the tree, spread the roots gently, and backfill with the excavated soil mixed with a spadeful of well-rotted compost. Firm the soil with your heel as you go to eliminate air pockets, but don't stamp it hard. Space trees at least 6 metres apart—more if you're planting multiple specimens or a small orchard. Stake immediately using a single vertical stake driven in at a 45-degree angle to avoid root damage, and attach the trunk with a flexible tree tie. Water thoroughly after planting—at least two full watering cans—and apply a 5–8 cm layer of well-rotted manure or bark mulch around the base, keeping it clear of the trunk to prevent rot.