Pruning English lavender 'Munstead'
When and how — Lavandula angustifolia 'Munstead'
Prune your english lavender 'Munstead' in March, April and August — the optimal month is usually April.
The next pruning window is August.

When to prune?
The perennial english lavender 'Munstead' is pruned in March, April and August.
With perennials, pruning is really seasonal management.
You don't prune perennials the way you prune shrubs. The work happens at three moments: (1) deadheading spent flower stems during the season to encourage repeat bloom, (2) optionally cutting back to about 10–15 cm above ground in late autumn, and (3) clearing all the old foliage in March before the new shoots emerge. Many gardeners now deliberately leave the old growth standing through winter — it protects the crown and shelters overwintering insects. Which approach to choose depends on taste and species: evergreen perennials (hellebore, bergenia) look better left alone, while wet-rotting species (hosta) need to come down after the first frost.
How to prune english lavender 'Munstead'
Lavandula angustifolia 'Munstead' needs pruning twice a year to stay compact, floriferous, and long-lived. The first and most important prune happens in March or April, just as new green shoots appear at the base of the old stems. Using clean, sharp secateurs or shears, cut back all the previous year's growth by about one-third to one-half, shaping the plant into a low, rounded mound. Always cut into the leafy green growth, never back into bare, woody stems—lavender rarely regenerates from old wood and a hard cut into brown stems can kill the plant. This spring prune encourages bushy new growth and plenty of flower spikes. The second prune comes in August, immediately after the main flowering flush. Deadhead by cutting off all the spent flower stalks along with an inch or two of leafy stem beneath them. This tidy-up prevents the plant wasting energy on seed production, keeps it neat, and often triggers a modest second flush of late-summer flowers. Again, stay in the green growth. If you've inherited an old, leggy lavender with a bare, woody base, renovation is risky; it's usually better to take cuttings and start afresh. Young plants respond well to pruning, so begin the routine in the first spring after planting. Use sharp tools to avoid bruising stems, and choose a dry day—wet foliage and open cuts invite fungal disease.
Common mistakes
✗ Cutting back too early in spring
Late frost can still strike and the old foliage protects the crown. Wait until the first new shoots are visible (usually mid-March) — then you know the season has actually started.
✗ Skipping deadheading
Hardy geranium, salvia, lupin and delphinium will give a second flush if you cut spent stems back to just above a pair of healthy leaves as soon as the first flowers fade.
✗ Cutting ornamental grasses down in autumn
The dry stems are the whole point of winter interest, AND they protect the crown from frost and waterlogging. Cut down to a fist's height only in late February.
Combine with feeding
In March and April you can combine pruning with feeding — efficient, and you only disturb the plant once. Read the full care guide for english lavender 'Munstead' →
Hold off on pruning
Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is August. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).