Pruning Red valerian
When and how — Centranthus ruber
Prune your red valerian in March and August — the optimal month is usually August.
The next pruning window is August.

When to prune?
The perennial red valerian is pruned in March and August.
With perennials, pruning is really seasonal management.
You don't prune perennials the way you prune shrubs. The work happens at three moments: (1) deadheading spent flower stems during the season to encourage repeat bloom, (2) optionally cutting back to about 10–15 cm above ground in late autumn, and (3) clearing all the old foliage in March before the new shoots emerge. Many gardeners now deliberately leave the old growth standing through winter — it protects the crown and shelters overwintering insects. Which approach to choose depends on taste and species: evergreen perennials (hellebore, bergenia) look better left alone, while wet-rotting species (hosta) need to come down after the first frost.
How to prune red valerian
Spoorbloem flowers from late spring through to late summer, producing dense clusters of small tubular blooms on upright stems. To keep plants tidy and encourage a second flush of flowers, deadhead or cut back hard in August after the main flowering period. Use secateurs or garden shears to trim the whole plant back by about half to two-thirds, removing spent flower stems and any straggly growth. This August prune stimulates fresh basal foliage and often a modest second flowering in early autumn, while also preventing excessive self-seeding if that's a concern in your garden. In March, carry out a light tidy-up to remove any winter-damaged stems and old foliage. Cut back dead or frost-damaged growth to just above emerging new shoots at the base. Spoorbloem is semi-evergreen in milder winters but can look tatty by late winter, so this spring prune refreshes the plant and promotes vigorous new growth. Avoid cutting into woody older stems at the base unless you're rejuvenating a very old clump, as Centranthus can be slow to reshoot from hard, bare wood. The plant naturally forms a bushy, somewhat sprawling habit and doesn't require complex shaping. If it becomes too large or floppy, especially in richer soils or shadier spots, cut it back more severely in March. Spoorbloem is short-lived as perennials go, typically lasting four to six years, so take cuttings or allow some self-seeding to maintain a succession of young plants.
Common mistakes
✗ Cutting back too early in spring
Late frost can still strike and the old foliage protects the crown. Wait until the first new shoots are visible (usually mid-March) — then you know the season has actually started.
✗ Skipping deadheading
Hardy geranium, salvia, lupin and delphinium will give a second flush if you cut spent stems back to just above a pair of healthy leaves as soon as the first flowers fade.
✗ Cutting ornamental grasses down in autumn
The dry stems are the whole point of winter interest, AND they protect the crown from frost and waterlogging. Cut down to a fist's height only in late February.
Hold off on pruning
Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is August. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).
