Fig in February: monthly care

Figs fruit on the previous year's growth, so pruning must be timed carefully to avoid removing potential crops. The main pruning window is January to March, while the tree is dormant. Use clean, sharp secateurs or a pruning saw for thicker branches. In late winter, remove any dead, damaged, or crossing branches to maintain an open framework that allows light and air into the centre. If your fig is fan-trained against a wall, tie in strong young shoots to fill gaps and cut back any growing away from the wall or into the structure. On freestanding trees, aim for a balanced, open goblet shape by shortening overly long shoots to an outward-facing bud. In June, pinch out the growing tips of new shoots once they have produced five or six leaves. This encourages the formation of embryonic figs at the leaf joints, which will overwinter as pea-sized fruitlets and ripen the following summer. Remove any large, soft figs still on the tree in autumn—they won't survive winter and can harbour disease. Figs grown under glass or in mild coastal areas may need summer thinning if they become congested, but outdoor trees in cooler zones rarely require heavy pruning. Overpruning stimulates vigorous, unproductive growth, so err on the side of restraint. The goal is a tidy, well-spaced structure that maximises sunlight on ripening wood.

Figs have moderate water needs. Water regularly from spring through summer, especially during dry spells, to prevent fruit drop and encourage juicy, well-flavoured figs. Container-grown plants dry out quickly and may need watering daily in hot weather. Reduce watering in autumn and winter once growth slows, but don't let the soil become bone-dry. Feed in February and March with a high-potassium fertiliser such as tomato feed to promote fruiting rather than excessive leafy growth. A single application of general-purpose granular fertiliser in early spring, followed by liquid feeds every fortnight from late spring until the fruit begins to ripen, works well. Mulch annually in spring with garden compost or well-rotted manure, keeping it away from the stem. Figs are hardy in zone 7a and above, but young growth and embryonic fruit can be damaged by late frosts. In colder gardens, wrap the branches loosely in horticultural fleece during cold snaps in April and May. Container-grown figs can be moved into an unheated greenhouse or porch over winter. Common pests include fig rust (orange spots on leaves, usually cosmetic), red spider mite in hot, dry conditions, and birds pecking ripe fruit—netting may be necessary at harvest. Scale insects occasionally cluster on stems; wipe them off or treat with horticultural soap. Good air circulation and avoiding waterlogged soil help prevent fungal issues. Remove fallen leaves and fruit to reduce overwintering pests.