Pruning guide

Pruning Hakone grass

When and howHakonechloa macra

Prune your hakone grass in March and April — the optimal month is usually April.

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The next pruning window is March next year.

Hakone grass (Hakonechloa macra)
Foto: James K. Lindsey / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0

When to prune?

The perennial hakone grass is pruned in March and April.

With perennials, pruning is really seasonal management.

You don't prune perennials the way you prune shrubs. The work happens at three moments: (1) deadheading spent flower stems during the season to encourage repeat bloom, (2) optionally cutting back to about 10–15 cm above ground in late autumn, and (3) clearing all the old foliage in March before the new shoots emerge. Many gardeners now deliberately leave the old growth standing through winter — it protects the crown and shelters overwintering insects. Which approach to choose depends on taste and species: evergreen perennials (hellebore, bergenia) look better left alone, while wet-rotting species (hosta) need to come down after the first frost.

How to prune hakone grass

Hakonechloa macra requires very little pruning in the traditional sense, but an annual tidy-up keeps it looking its best. The foliage turns attractive shades of bronze and gold in autumn and persists through winter, providing structure and interest when many perennials have died back. Leave the old foliage in place over winter to protect the crown from frost and wet, and to give shelter to overwintering insects. In early spring—March or April—cut back all the previous year's growth before the new shoots emerge. Use sharp secateurs or hedging shears and cut the whole clump down to within 5–8 cm of the ground. This is a straightforward job: simply gather the old stems in one hand and slice through them cleanly. The old foliage will be dry and brittle by this point, making it easy to remove. Rake away the debris or add it to your compost heap. Timing matters. If you prune too early in late winter, you remove the protective layer before the worst weather has passed. If you leave it too late, you risk damaging the fresh new shoots that emerge in mid to late spring. Aim to complete the job before you see bright green tips pushing through at the base. Hakonechloa doesn't produce showy flowers—the late-summer blooms are inconspicuous green spikelets—so there's no deadheading required. If any stems look tatty or damaged during the growing season, snip them out at the base, but otherwise leave the plant alone to develop its graceful, arching habit undisturbed.

Common mistakes

Cutting back too early in spring

Late frost can still strike and the old foliage protects the crown. Wait until the first new shoots are visible (usually mid-March) — then you know the season has actually started.

Skipping deadheading

Hardy geranium, salvia, lupin and delphinium will give a second flush if you cut spent stems back to just above a pair of healthy leaves as soon as the first flowers fade.

Cutting ornamental grasses down in autumn

The dry stems are the whole point of winter interest, AND they protect the crown from frost and waterlogging. Cut down to a fist's height only in late February.

Combine with feeding

In April you can combine pruning with feeding — efficient, and you only disturb the plant once. Read the full care guide for hakone grass →

Too late this year? Here's what to do

Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is March next year. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).

Also prune in March and April

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