Hortensia

Hydrangea macrophylla

Engels: Hydrangea

shrubHydrangeaceae

Hortensia (Hydrangea macrophylla) is a shrub from the Hydrangeaceae family that grows up to 200cm tall. This plant thrives in partial shade to shade and requires moderate maintenance. Blooms in summer and late summer with blue, pink, white, purple flowers and attracts bees and butterflies.

Hoogte

100–200 cm

Breedte

100–200 cm

Zonligging

partial shade, full shade

Waterbehoefte

high water needs

Grondsoort

loam, peat soil

Onderhoud

moderate maintenance

Bloeitijd

summer, late summer

Bloemkleuren

blue, pink, white, purple

Ecologische waarde

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Care tips

Planting

Hydrangeas thrive in partial or full shade, making them ideal for north-facing borders or spots beneath deciduous trees where they receive dappled light. Avoid hot, sunny positions, which scorch the leaves and stress the plant. They need moisture-retentive soil, so loam or peat-based soils are perfect; if your ground is sandy or free-draining, dig in plenty of well-rotted compost or leaf mould before planting to improve water retention. Plant container-grown hydrangeas between March and May or in September and October. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and roughly the same depth. Tease out any circling roots gently, then position the plant so the top of the root ball sits level with the surrounding soil—planting too deep can lead to rot. Backfill with the excavated soil mixed with compost, firming gently as you go to eliminate air pockets. Space plants 120 cm apart to allow for their mature spread of 100–200 cm. After planting, water thoroughly and apply a 5–8 cm layer of organic mulch such as composted bark or leaf mould around the base, keeping it clear of the stems. This conserves moisture and suppresses weeds. Water regularly through the first growing season to help roots establish, especially during dry spells. If planting in autumn, the cooler, wetter weather will do much of the work for you, but spring-planted hydrangeas need closer attention until their roots have spread. Staking is not usually necessary unless your site is very exposed to wind.

Pruning

Hydrangea macrophylla flowers on old wood—buds formed the previous summer—so heavy or mistimed pruning will remove this year's blooms. Prune in March or April, just as the leaf buds begin to swell and you can distinguish live wood from any frost-damaged stems. Use clean, sharp secateurs or loppers. Start by removing any dead, damaged, or weak stems entirely at the base. Then trace each flowering stem down to the first pair of strong, healthy buds below the old flowerhead and cut just above them—typically 10–20 cm below the spent bloom. This encourages the plant to put energy into the buds that will flower in summer. Avoid cutting back into thick, old wood lower down unless you're renovating a neglected plant, as this wood may not break readily. Every few years, remove one or two of the oldest, thickest stems at ground level to encourage fresh, vigorous growth from the base and maintain an open framework. This prevents congestion and improves air circulation, which helps reduce mildew. If your hydrangea has suffered frost damage over winter, wait until April to assess which stems are viable—green tissue beneath the bark indicates life. Don't be tempted to tidy up in autumn; the old flowerheads provide some frost protection to the buds below and look attractive rimmed with frost. If your plant doesn't need renovation, pruning is light and quick: simply deadhead and tidy. Overpruning is the most common mistake and results in a leafy bush with few or no flowers.

Maintenance

Hydrangeas have high water needs and suffer quickly in dry soil, especially during summer. Water deeply two or three times a week in warm weather, more often if planted in a container or free-draining ground. In spring and autumn, once a week is usually sufficient if rainfall is average, but check that the top few centimetres of soil don't dry out. Mulch annually in early spring with a 5 cm layer of composted bark, leaf mould, or well-rotted manure to lock in moisture and suppress weeds. Feed in March or early April with a balanced slow-release fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone, scattering a handful around the base of each plant and watering in. Give a second feed in June to support flowering. If you want blue flowers, your soil must be acidic (pH below 6); on neutral or alkaline soils, hydrangeas turn pink. You can encourage blue tones by applying a specialist hydrangea colourant (aluminium sulphate) in spring, but this only works if the soil pH allows it. Hydrangeas are hardy in zones 5b–9b, but late frosts can damage emerging buds. In colder gardens, consider planting in a sheltered spot or leaving old flowerheads on over winter for protection. No special winter wrapping is needed in most of temperate Europe. Watch for powdery mildew in dry summers, especially on plants in too much sun or with poor air circulation—improve spacing and water consistently. Aphids occasionally cluster on soft new growth in spring; a strong jet of water usually dislodges them. Capsid bugs can cause tattered holes in leaves but rarely warrant treatment. Yellowing leaves (chlorosis) often indicate alkaline soil; apply ericaceous fertiliser or sulphur chips to lower pH gradually.