Pruning guide

Pruning Siberian bugloss 'Jack Frost'

When and howBrunnera macrophylla 'Jack Frost'

Prune your siberian bugloss 'Jack Frost' in June and July — the optimal month is usually July.

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The next pruning window is June.

Siberian bugloss 'Jack Frost' (Brunnera macrophylla 'Jack Frost')
Foto: Didier Descouens / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0

When to prune?

The perennial siberian bugloss 'Jack Frost' is pruned in June and July.

With perennials, pruning is really seasonal management.

You don't prune perennials the way you prune shrubs. The work happens at three moments: (1) deadheading spent flower stems during the season to encourage repeat bloom, (2) optionally cutting back to about 10–15 cm above ground in late autumn, and (3) clearing all the old foliage in March before the new shoots emerge. Many gardeners now deliberately leave the old growth standing through winter — it protects the crown and shelters overwintering insects. Which approach to choose depends on taste and species: evergreen perennials (hellebore, bergenia) look better left alone, while wet-rotting species (hosta) need to come down after the first frost.

How to prune siberian bugloss 'Jack Frost'

Brunnera macrophylla 'Jack Frost' does not require traditional pruning in the way shrubs do, but it does benefit from some tidying to keep it looking its best and to encourage healthy foliage. The main task is removing spent flower stems and any damaged or tatty leaves, typically done in June or July after the spring flowering period has finished. Once the clusters of delicate blue forget-me-not flowers have faded, cut back the flower stems to the base using secateurs or garden snips. This prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and keeps the focus on the ornamental silver-veined foliage, which is the real star of 'Jack Frost'. Removing old flower stems also tidies the plant's appearance and reduces the risk of fungal issues in damp, shaded conditions. Throughout the growing season, check for any leaves that have become scorched, damaged by slugs, or affected by mildew, and snip these off at the base. In late autumn or early spring, you can cut back any remaining foliage that has deteriorated over winter, though many gardeners prefer to leave this job until early spring when new growth begins to emerge. Simply trim away the old leaves to ground level to make way for fresh foliage. Brunnera is a clump-forming perennial that doesn't need regular division, but if the centre of an established clump becomes congested or less vigorous after several years, you can lift and divide it in early autumn or spring. Replant healthy outer sections and discard the woody centre.

Common mistakes

Cutting back too early in spring

Late frost can still strike and the old foliage protects the crown. Wait until the first new shoots are visible (usually mid-March) — then you know the season has actually started.

Skipping deadheading

Hardy geranium, salvia, lupin and delphinium will give a second flush if you cut spent stems back to just above a pair of healthy leaves as soon as the first flowers fade.

Cutting ornamental grasses down in autumn

The dry stems are the whole point of winter interest, AND they protect the crown from frost and waterlogging. Cut down to a fist's height only in late February.

Hold off on pruning

Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is June. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).

Also prune in June and July

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