Apricot in August: monthly care

Apricots fruit on short spurs and on wood produced the previous year, so pruning technique and timing are critical. Unlike most fruit trees, apricots must be pruned in late spring and summer—specifically April and August—to minimise the risk of silver leaf disease and bacterial canker, both of which enter through wounds and are most active in autumn and winter. Never prune apricots during dormancy. In April, once buds have broken and growth is active, remove any dead, diseased, or crossing branches. Thin out overcrowded growth in the centre of the tree to improve air circulation and light penetration, which reduces disease pressure and helps fruit ripen evenly. Cut back to a healthy outward-facing bud or side shoot. If you're training a fan against a wall, pinch back new side shoots to five or six leaves to encourage fruiting spurs. The August prune is a light tidy-up: remove any vigorous upright shoots (water sprouts) that have appeared since spring, and shorten the side shoots you pinched in April back to three leaves. This helps redirect energy into fruit bud formation for next year. Always use clean, sharp secateurs or a pruning saw for larger branches, and disinfect blades between cuts if you suspect disease. Apricots can bleed sap when cut, but this is normal in spring and summer and will seal naturally. Avoid heavy pruning; apricots resent it and may respond with excessive vegetative growth at the expense of fruit.

Apricots have moderate water needs but require consistent moisture during fruit development from late spring through July and August. Water deeply once a week during dry spells, giving 15–20 litres per tree, and increase frequency if the weather is hot. Reduce watering after harvest to help the tree harden off before winter. Avoid overhead watering, which encourages fungal diseases; use a soaker hose or water at the base. Feed in March with a balanced general-purpose fertiliser (such as Growmore) scattered around the root zone at roughly 100 g per square metre, then lightly fork it in. In June, apply a high-potash feed (tomato fertiliser works well) to support fruit ripening and next year's bud development. Refresh the mulch layer each spring with well-rotted manure or compost, keeping it clear of the trunk. Apricots are hardy to zone 5 but their early blossom is vulnerable to frost. Drape horticultural fleece over the canopy on cold nights in March and early April if frost is forecast, removing it during the day to allow pollinating insects access. Hand-pollination with a soft brush can improve fruit set in cool springs when few insects are active. Common problems include aphids on new growth in spring—spray with an insecticidal soap if necessary—and brown rot, which causes fruit to rot and mummify on the branch. Remove and destroy infected fruit immediately. Bacterial canker causes oozing lesions on branches; prune out affected wood in summer and improve drainage and air circulation to reduce risk. Apricots are high-maintenance and demand vigilance, but the reward is exceptional homegrown fruit.