Olijfboom

Olea europaea

Engels: Olive tree

treeOleaceaeWintergroenEetbaar

Olijfboom (Olea europaea) is a evergreen, edible tree from the Oleaceae family that grows up to 30 meters tall. This plant thrives in full sun and requires moderate maintenance. Blooms in spring with white flowers and attracts bees and butterflies.

Hoogte

300–3000 cm

Breedte

200–600 cm

Zonligging

full sun

Waterbehoefte

moderate

Grondsoort

sandy soil, loam

Onderhoud

moderate maintenance

Bloeitijd

spring

Bloemkleuren

white

Ecologische waarde

Trekt bijen aan

🦋 Trekt vlinders aan

Verzorgingskalender

Taak	Jan	Feb	Mrt	Apr	Mei	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Okt	Nov	Dec
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💧Bemesten

Care tips

Planting

Olive trees thrive in full sun and need a warm, sheltered spot to succeed in temperate European gardens. They are borderline hardy in zones 8a–9, so choose the sunniest, most protected position you have—ideally against a south-facing wall or in a courtyard that traps warmth and shields the tree from cold winds. In colder parts of the UK, Ireland, and the Low Countries, growing in a large container is often more practical than planting in open ground, as it allows you to move the tree under cover in winter. Plant between March and May, once the risk of hard frost has passed and the soil is warming up. Olive trees demand excellent drainage; they will not tolerate waterlogged roots. If your soil is heavy clay, improve it generously with horticultural grit and organic matter, or plant on a slight mound to encourage water to drain away. Sandy soil and loam are ideal. Dig a planting hole twice the width of the root ball but no deeper, so the tree sits at the same level it was growing in the pot. Backfill with the excavated soil mixed with a little compost and firm gently. Space trees at least 300 cm apart if planting more than one, to allow for their mature spread. Water thoroughly after planting to settle the roots, then mulch around the base with gravel or grit rather than organic mulch—this reflects heat, suppresses weeds, and keeps the trunk collar dry, reducing the risk of rot. Stake young trees loosely if the site is exposed, but remove the stake after one growing season to encourage a strong trunk.

Pruning

Prune olive trees in January or February, during their dormant period when the risk of frost is lower and before new growth begins in spring. Pruning at this time minimises sap loss and stress. Use clean, sharp secateurs for smaller branches and a pruning saw for anything thicker than your thumb. The main goal is to maintain an open, vase-shaped canopy that allows light and air into the centre of the tree. This reduces disease pressure and encourages fruiting wood. Start by removing any dead, damaged, or crossing branches. Then take out any shoots growing inward toward the centre or straight up (water shoots), as these crowd the canopy and rarely produce fruit. Aim to create a framework of three to five main branches radiating outward. Olive trees fruit on one-year-old wood, so avoid heavy pruning of the previous season's growth if you want a crop. Light annual pruning is better than severe cuts every few years. If your tree has become overgrown or neglected, you can renovate it more drastically, but spread the work over two or three winters to avoid shocking the plant. In containers, keep the canopy compact by shortening vigorous shoots by about a third each winter. Remove any suckers that emerge from the base or root ball promptly. Olive trees tolerate hard pruning and will regenerate from old wood if necessary, but regular, moderate pruning keeps them healthy and productive without the need for drastic intervention.

Maintenance

Olive trees are drought-tolerant once established but need moderate watering during the growing season, especially in containers. Water deeply when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry, roughly once a week in warm weather, less in cooler months. Overwatering is more dangerous than underwatering—olives hate sitting in wet soil. In winter, reduce watering significantly; containerised trees may need only a light drink once a fortnight if kept under cover. Feed in March and April with a balanced slow-release fertiliser or a liquid tomato feed, which is high in potassium and supports flowering and fruiting. Container-grown olives benefit from monthly feeding through the growing season, as nutrients leach out more quickly. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds, which promote soft, frost-vulnerable growth. Overwintering is the critical challenge in temperate zones. In-ground trees in zone 8b and above usually survive with fleece protection around the canopy during hard frosts. In colder or exposed gardens, move containerised olives into an unheated greenhouse, porch, or garage with good light. They tolerate cool conditions but not prolonged freezing. Keep them barely moist and do not feed over winter. Olive trees are generally pest-free in northern Europe, though scale insects occasionally appear on stems and leaves; wipe them off or treat with horticultural soap. Peacock spot, a fungal disease causing circular lesions on leaves, can occur in damp conditions—improve air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Mulch with gravel rather than bark to keep the root zone well-drained and reduce fungal problems.