Pruning Yarrow 'Terracotta'
When and how — Achillea 'Terracotta'
Prune your yarrow 'Terracotta' in March and August — the optimal month is usually August.
The next pruning window is August.

When to prune?
The perennial yarrow 'Terracotta' is pruned in March and August.
With perennials, pruning is really seasonal management.
You don't prune perennials the way you prune shrubs. The work happens at three moments: (1) deadheading spent flower stems during the season to encourage repeat bloom, (2) optionally cutting back to about 10–15 cm above ground in late autumn, and (3) clearing all the old foliage in March before the new shoots emerge. Many gardeners now deliberately leave the old growth standing through winter — it protects the crown and shelters overwintering insects. Which approach to choose depends on taste and species: evergreen perennials (hellebore, bergenia) look better left alone, while wet-rotting species (hosta) need to come down after the first frost.
How to prune yarrow 'Terracotta'
Achillea 'Terracotta' requires minimal pruning, but a couple of well-timed cuts will keep it tidy and encourage a longer flowering season. The main pruning window falls in August, after the first flush of blooms fades, and again in March as part of the spring tidy-up. Deadheading is the most useful task during the flowering period, which runs from early summer through to late summer. Once the flat flower heads turn brown and lose their colour—usually by mid to late August—cut the spent stems back to just above a set of healthy leaves or a side shoot lower down the stem. This often prompts a second, smaller flush of flowers in early autumn and prevents the plant self-seeding everywhere, which it will do enthusiastically if left to its own devices. In March, before new growth emerges, cut back all the old stems to ground level. Use clean, sharp secateurs or garden shears. The dried stems and seed heads can look attractive through winter, especially when rimed with frost, so many gardeners leave them standing until late winter both for structure and to provide seed for birds. If you prefer a neater look or the stems have collapsed and turned mushy, you can cut back earlier in late autumn, but waiting until March protects the crown from excess winter wet. Yarrow clumps can become congested and flower less freely after three or four years. If this happens, lift and divide the clump in March or April, replanting only the vigorous outer sections and discarding the woody centre.
Common mistakes
✗ Cutting back too early in spring
Late frost can still strike and the old foliage protects the crown. Wait until the first new shoots are visible (usually mid-March) — then you know the season has actually started.
✗ Skipping deadheading
Hardy geranium, salvia, lupin and delphinium will give a second flush if you cut spent stems back to just above a pair of healthy leaves as soon as the first flowers fade.
✗ Cutting ornamental grasses down in autumn
The dry stems are the whole point of winter interest, AND they protect the crown from frost and waterlogging. Cut down to a fist's height only in late February.
Hold off on pruning
Better to wait than prune at the wrong moment. The next optimal window is August. Until then: leave the plant alone — only remove dead or diseased wood (which you can do year-round).